Annapurna Circuit Without the Jeep Road 2026: Classic Route Still Possible

What the road changed

The Annapurna Circuit was once a three-week walk through some of the most varied terrain on Earth. Roads now reach Manang from the east and Muktinath from the west, and many trekkers lament that the 'circuit is dead.' It is not — you just have to know which trails to take.

Stage-by-stage: road vs trail

Understanding exactly where jeep roads have replaced trail — and where they haven't — is the single most important piece of planning for the modern Annapurna Circuit.

Stage	Road or trail?	What to do
Besisahar → Chame (~60 km)	Jeep road the whole way	Take the bus/jeep — skip 2 days of dusty road-walking
Chame → Pisang	Mostly trail, a few road crossings	Walk — apple orchards and Annapurna II views
Pisang → Manang	Lower road OR upper trail	Take the high route via Ghyaru and Ngawal
Manang → Thorong La → Muktinath	Pristine footpath, no road	The heart of the trek — walk it all
Muktinath → Jomsom	Short road section	Walk Kagbeni–Marpha, short jeep into Jomsom

Besisahar to Chame: take the bus

The road from Besisahar to Chame (~60 km) now runs the entire length of the lower Marshyangdi valley. The trail still exists in fragments, but for long stretches the two are inseparable — dusty, noisy, sharing the same narrow gorge with jeeps and trucks. Take the local bus or jeep from Besisahar to Chame. You save two days of uninspiring road-walking and arrive fresh for the section where the trek actually begins. Nobody who has done this regrets it.

Chame to Pisang: mostly trail, some road crossings

From Chame (2,710 m) the trail reasserts itself through apple orchards and dense pine forest below the immense south wall of Lamjung Himal. There are several short road crossings, but the trail is well-signed. The views of Annapurna II begin to dominate and the valley widens into high-altitude meadow country. This stretch takes roughly two days at a comfortable acclimatisation pace.

Pisang to Manang: the high route is non-negotiable

At Pisang (3,200 m) the valley splits. The lower road runs along the valley floor directly to Manang — flat, fast, and wholly unremarkable. The upper trail climbs through the villages of Ghyaru and Ngawal at around 3,700 m before descending to Manang. Take the upper trail. Every time. Without exception.

Manang to Thorong La to Muktinath: pristine trail

Above Manang the road ends entirely. From the moment you leave the village heading toward Thorong Phedi and the high camp, you are on footpath that has existed for centuries. The crossing of Thorong La itself is one of the great day-walks in the Himalayas — a long, steep, high, and genuinely demanding day that rewards with panoramic views across Mustang. This section, roughly three to four days from Manang, is the heart of the circuit and it remains exactly as it has always been.

Muktinath to Jomsom: short road section, largely avoidable

Below Muktinath a jeep road descends to Kagbeni and continues south to Jomsom. Most trekkers walk Kagbeni to Marpha on trail, stopping for a night in the apple villages, then take a short jeep from Marpha or Tukuche into Jomsom to catch the morning flight to Pokhara.

Exit options from Jomsom

The standard exit is the Jomsom to Pokhara flight — 20 minutes and spectacular. Book in advance; seats fill fast in October and November. Alternatively, jeeps run to Beni and then on to Pokhara. A third option is to extend the trek south through Ghasa, Dana, and Tatopani hot springs to Beni on foot, adding three days and a dramatic descent through the deepest part of the Kali Gandaki.

The high route via Upper Pisang

The single best decision on the circuit: at Pisang, take the upper trail through Ghyaru and Ngawal rather than the lower valley road. This high route climbs to 3,700m with jaw-dropping head-on views of Annapurna II, III, IV, and Gangapurna, passes ancient Tibetan villages, and aids acclimatisation. It rejoins the main trail before Manang. It is harder, higher, and infinitely more rewarding than the road below.

Why the high route is far superior

The views

Walking the lower road, Annapurna II (7,937 m) and Gangapurna (7,454 m) are largely obscured. On the high route you gain enough elevation to look these mountains directly in the face. Annapurna III and IV arrange themselves in a ridge that fills the entire southern sky. Gangapurna's glacier hangs directly above Manang when you approach from the east ridge. This is the classic Annapurna Circuit view that appears in every photograph — and it is only accessible on the high route.

The villages

Ghyaru and Ngawal are among the best-preserved Tibetan-influenced villages in the Annapurna region. Stone houses stacked against steep hillsides, mani walls a hundred metres long, chortens at every entry and exit point, prayer flags between rooftops, and flat-roofed temples that predate the trekking era by centuries. Walking through at dawn or late afternoon — when the light is low and the mountains are lit amber — is one of those moments the Annapurna Circuit is actually famous for.

Acclimatisation value

The climb from Lower Pisang (3,200 m) to Ghyaru (3,673 m) and Ngawal (3,660 m) adds meaningful altitude gain on a day when your body is still adjusting. You gain over 400m during the day, then descend into Manang at 3,540m to sleep. Trekkers who take this route consistently report fewer acclimatisation headaches in Manang than those who walk the flat valley floor.

Acclimatisation side trips from Manang

Use your rest day in Manang (3,540m) for the climb to Ice Lake (Kicho Tal, 4,600m) or Gangapurna Lake and viewpoint. These keep you off the road entirely and prepare you for the pass.

The western side: Kagbeni, Marpha, and Mustang

Kagbeni: the medieval walled village

Kagbeni sits at the confluence of the Kali Gandaki and Jhong Khola rivers at 2,810 m and looks precisely as it has for five hundred years. The compact mud-walled village is ringed by a crumbling perimeter wall with a single main gate. The Kag Chode Monastery, still active, dates to the fifteenth century. Budget an extra night here — the experience of waking to the sound of monks and looking north into the Mustang corridor is one of the quiet highlights of the entire circuit.

Side trip up the Mustang valley from Kagbeni

Kagbeni is the checkpoint for Upper Mustang. Day-trippers can walk an hour or two north of the checkpoint to get a feel for the stark, wind-eroded landscape — ochre cliffs, cave dwellings, a surreal moonscape totally unlike the green lower valleys — without requiring the Upper Mustang permit.

Marpha: the apple village

Marpha (2,667 m) is the most picturesque village on the western descent — a flagstone-paved main street, whitewashed houses with carved wooden balconies, entirely closed to motor traffic. The apple brandy and cider here are worth sampling, and the monastery above has excellent views north to the Dhaulagiri massif.

Thorong La and the western descent

The crossing of Thorong La (5,416m) remains entirely on foot and is untouched by roads — the high point of the trek in every sense. On the western side, the road now reaches Muktinath, so many trekkers end at Muktinath or Jomsom and fly or drive out, rather than walking the dusty lower Kali Gandaki road.

Permit requirements

ACAP — Annapurna Conservation Area Permit

Cost: NPR 3,000. Issued by the Nepal Tourism Board offices in Kathmandu (Bhrikutimandap) or Pokhara (Damside), or at the ACAP checkpost in Besisahar. Carry passport photos and a passport photocopy.

TIMS — Trekkers' Information Management System

Cost: NPR 2,000 for individual trekkers (NPR 1,000 through a registered agency). Issued at the same NTB offices. Both ACAP and TIMS are checked at multiple checkposts — carry originals.

Upper Mustang Restricted Area Permit

Cost: USD 500 for the first 10 days. Must be arranged through a registered Nepali trekking agency (independent trekking without a guide is not permitted in Upper Mustang). A combined Annapurna Circuit + Upper Mustang extension of 20–24 days is one of the great Himalayan journeys.

Best time and season-by-season breakdown

October–November: prime season

The post-monsoon window is best without qualification. Rain has cleared, the atmosphere is transparent, every high-altitude viewpoint delivers. Thorong La is reliably open. Temperatures at 3,500m at night drop to −5°C to −10°C but days are clear above treeline. Teahouses book out fast in October — reserve a day ahead.

March–April: spring season

Second-best window. Rhododendron forests on the lower circuit are in full bloom through late March. Views are slightly hazier than autumn but the high-altitude section above Manang is still excellent. Generally less crowded than October.

December–February: cold and quiet

Winter is possible but demanding. Thorong La can be closed for days after heavy snowfall. Temperatures at the pass can reach −20°C with wind chill. For experienced trekkers with proper gear and a flexible itinerary, the solitude and drama can be extraordinary.

June–September: monsoon season

The circuit sits on the southern edge of the monsoon belt. Persistent rain, leeches below 3,000m, and elevated landslide risk make the full circuit inadvisable. The Mustang rain shadow remains drier, which is why Upper Mustang is specifically marketed as a monsoon-season trek.

The smart 2026 itinerary

Start trekking at Chame or Dharapani (drive the lowest road section), walk the high route through Ghyaru/Ngawal, acclimatise properly in Manang, cross Thorong La to Muktinath, and exit via Jomsom. You get virtually all the classic walking with none of the worst road-walking. The Annapurna Circuit, done right, is still one of the world's great treks.

Planning your route? See how the circuit compares in our best treks in Nepal guide, budget the trip with our Nepal trekking cost breakdown, sort your paperwork on the permits hub, or contact us to build a guided high-route itinerary.